Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin - Unfrogettable
When two houses share a disdain for convention, the result is rarely subtle. The Unfrogettable, the third collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, is a regulator that stares back at you—literally.
Limited to 178 pieces in each of two dial colors, it’s a watch that weaponizes whimsy without sacrificing technical credibility.
The Concept: A Frog Princess in Samurai Armor
The premise sounds like a fever dream: a Slavic folk tale about a frog princess collides with Japanese samurai symbolism, interpreted through Swiss watchmaking. In Russian folklore, the frog is a spell in disguise—humble outside, potent within. In Japan, the frog (kaeru) represents luck, resilience, and safe return. Samurai armor embodies discipline and perfection. Chaykin and Louis Erard’s CEO Manuel Emch fused these threads into a single character: a warrior amphibian that leaps across cultural boundaries.
This isn’t just a dial with a funny face. The entire case was re-engineered for this edition, slimming to 40mm wide and 12.45mm thick in Grade 5 titanium. The crown sits at 12 o’clock—because, as Emch notes, “it’s a princess after all.” A hidden engraving on the dual-tone minute ring reads “Louis Erard Konstantin Chaykin,” a love note between collaborators.
The Dial: Eyes That Follow Time
The signature Louis Erard regulator layout rotates 90 degrees horizontally. Hours occupy the left subdial at 9 o’clock, seconds the right at 3 o’clock, and a central arrow-tipped hand tracks minutes—subtly nodding to the frog princess narrative. But the eyes are the stars: two black discs with white pupils rotate continuously, tracking the hours and seconds. As time passes, the pupils spin, creating the illusion of a living face. It’s playful, slightly unsettling, and mechanically serious.
The base dial comes in two grained finishes: violet or forest green. Lacquered nostrils match the dial tone, while a red section of the minute ring bears the collaboration inscription. The entire display is machined and finished with the same precision Louis Erard applies to its standard regulators—no corners cut for the sake of novelty.
The Strap: Actual Samurai Technology
The strap isn’t just thematic—it’s historic. Crafted from Himeji Kurozan leather, it uses traditional techniques developed for samurai armor. Black cowhide is hand-rubbed, naturally tanned, and finished with Urushi lacquer, creating a surface that’s both matte and glossy. The result is a strap that feels like armor: structured yet comfortable, with violet or green stitching matching the dial. The inner lining in vivid rabbit leather adds a final hidden flourish—because even a warrior frog deserves comfort.
Case & Materials: Titanium Forged for Battle
Grade 5 titanium keeps the watch light and robust despite its visual heft. Surfaces alternate between polished and satin-brushed finishes, giving the case depth withoutflash. At 12.45mm thick, it slides under a cuff easier than previous Louis Erard regulators, a deliberate engineering choice to broaden its wearability. The crown’s fluted design resembles a royal diadem, winking at the princess theme while providing functional grip.
Precision Behind the Grin
Powering the Unfrogettable is the Sellita SW266-1, a robust automatic movement that Louis Erard modifies for its regulator displays. Chaykin’s contribution is the module design and conceptual execution—those rotating eyes required precise calculations to ensure the discs align correctly without dragging or wobbling. The watch remains a regulator at heart: a complication historically used for precision time-setting, here repurposed as a storytelling device.
Technical Specification
Case: Satin-finished and polished Grade 5 titanium, Ø40 mm, lug to lug: 46.50 mm, thickness: 12.45 mm, 3 pieces, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent case back, polished Grade 5 titanium crown inspired by a royal crown and finished with 2N PVD coating
caseback engraved "LOUIS ERARD KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN 1 OF 178", water-resistant to 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft).
Dial: Dark green and red hour ring with light green and light pink transfers, lower plate in light green with grained finish, dark green lacquered nostrils, dark green circular satin-finished hour and seconds rings with light green transfer markers, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin logos in white transfers at 6 o’clock.
Movement: Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 11½, Ø25.60 mm, thickness: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol, approx. 38-hour power reserve.
Functions: Hours hand in a counter at 9 o'clock, central minutes hand, seconds hand in a counter at 3 o'clock
Hands: 2N-plated hour and minute discs with matte and satin finishes, black-lacquered pupils, and SLN C5 green luminescent accents. 2N-plated arrow-shaped minute hand with SLN C5 green luminescent tip.
Bracelet: Black Himeji Kurozan leather, also known as black diamond leather. Hand-rubbed black calf leather, naturally tanned and finished with Urushi lacquer. Matte and glossy finishes, green stitching on the lugs, green rabbit leather lining, polished Grade 5 titanium pin buckle with satin-finished “LE” logo plate, quick-release spring bars for easy strap change.
Dimensions: width 20/18mm, length 80/115mm
Price: HKD $45,000
Collaboration Watch developed in collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin in a 178-piece limited edition