Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini “Not For You”
In the intersection of haute horlogerie and contemporary art, few collaborations dare to challenge the viewer as directly as the the Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini "Not For You".
Unveiled at the 14th edition of Art Genève, it represents the brand's third foray into artist-driven timepieces—and perhaps its most confrontational yet. This is not merely a watch; it is a 39mm manifesto, a wearable installation that asks more questions than it answers.
The Architecture of Provocation
Monica Bonvicini requires little introduction in the contemporary art world. The Italian-born, Berlin-based artist has spent decades dismantling power structures, gender stereotypes, and architectural authority through monumental installations that blend scaffolding, leather, chains, and—most notably—text. Her 1999 Golden Lion win at the Venice Biennale merely confirmed what the art world already knew: Bonvicini does not create comfortable art.
The challenge? Translating Bonvicini's immersive, often brutal installations—works that dominate museum halls and public spaces—into something that rests against the wrist. The solution lay in her most iconic recurring motif: the phrase "not for you," which Bonvicini has emblazoned across walls in neon and mirror since 2006.
A Dial That Stares Back
The centerpiece of this collaboration is immediately apparent, yet infinitely complex. Set against a full-black Clou de Paris guilloché dial—a traditional watchmaking pattern that here evokes the studded leather and industrial textures of Bonvicini's universe—sits the phrase "not for you" rendered in mirror-polished appliqué.
This is where horological craft meets conceptual art. The mirrored surface serves a dual purpose: it reflects the environment, fragmenting the viewer's perception, while simultaneously reflecting the viewer themselves. As Bonvicini poses in the accompanying text: "How should we understand 'Time is not for you'? Time is made of things that begin and end. Why desire it when we are already living it?"
The Mechanics of Exclusivity
Beneath the exhibition caseback—where "not for you" appears again in mirror-polished letters beneath sapphire glass—beats the Sellita SW261-1 automatic caliber. This elaboré-grade movement features 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and approximately 38 hours of power reserve. Louis Erard has customized the rotor with black lacquering and their signature openworked design, ensuring the mechanical heart matches the artistic exterior's darkness.
The caseback engraving reveals the edition number: "Limited Edition 1 of 178." This specific number carries symbolic weight, representing "Stronger Together" in Chinese culture—a subtle nod to the collaborative spirit that defines Louis Erard's contemporary identity.
Technical Specification
Movement
Caliber: Automatic Sellita SW261-1 (elaboré grade)
Dimensions: 11½''' (Ø 25.6 mm), height 5.6 mm
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 31
Power Reserve: Approx. 38 hours
Decoration: Carefully decorated with specially openworked rotor featuring black lacquered Louis Erard symbol
Functions: Hours and minutes via central hands
Case
Material: Polished stainless steel, 3-piece construction
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 12.82 mm
Lug Width: 20 mm
Lug-to-Lug: 45.9 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; transparent caseback revealing movement
Crown: Signature fir tree design
Water Resistance: 5 bars (50 m / 165 ft)
Special Features:
Caseback engraved with "Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini - Limited Edition 1 of 178"
"Not for you" rendered in mirror-polished metallic letters beneath the sapphire glass
Dial
Design: Inspired by Monica Bonvicini's artworks
Finish: Black Clous de Paris guilloché with central black mirror-polished "not for you" appliqué
Hands
Material: Rhodium-plated
Strap
Primary: Black Baranil calfskin leather with tone-on-tone stitching at lugs, black grained calfskin lining
Buckle: Polished stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions: 20/18 mm width, 65/105 mm length
Features: Quick-release spring bars for easy strap changes
Additional: Supplied with larger spare strap (20/18 mm width, 80/115 mm length)
Edition
Collaboration: Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini
Limited edition of 178 pieces
Price: HKD $39,000